A Type Of Current Elctricity That Flows 1 Direction Lawn Sprinklers – How To Install or Repair Irrigation Main Line Connections

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Lawn Sprinklers – How To Install or Repair Irrigation Main Line Connections

This article describes how to install stop and waste water connections on outdoor and cooking systems. For most new construction, the irrigation connection is made in the basement. In previous years, the connection was always near a hose or park strip. The main benefit of having the connection outside is that if it ever leaks, it won’t be in your home. New home builders put them in because it’s cheaper for them. It has less engraving.

Pre install tips

For this type of installation, never buy these parts from a big box store like Home Depot or Lowe’s. They sell junky stops and trash with bell tops. It’s a piece of junk. You need to go to an actual sprinkler or plumbing store. Mueller makes a good stop and waste and costs about $80. 00. You should always use brass. Do not replace galvanized and never mix galvanized with brass. If you ever run into a galvanized main line, use a dielectric union to prevent current. When galvanized and brass are mixed it can create an electrical current that breaks the pipe. Nowadays, most people replace galvanized main lines because they are too old. Finally, use at least three rounds of Teflon tape for all threaded connections.

Necessary items

Stop and waste, brass tee, two six-inch brass nipples, threaded brass elbow, schedule 80 toe nipple, Teflon tape, PVC purple primer, PVC blue glue, reciprocating or hack saw, two pipe and two crescent wrenches, 10 feet of 2-inch pipe , two inch pipe cap, schedule 40 PVC pipe, coupling, gravel, sprinkler key, shovel, railroad pick, and sturdy soled boots. Crescent wrenches are optional.

Once you find the main line you will know what the shapes are. If you’re not sure, cut off a piece of the main line and take it to a plumbing store and shop accordingly. Most main lines are one inch or ¾ inch.

External water connection

You can have cooking water, secondary water or both. In each case, the connection is quite different. Most people will know they have secondary water because there will be another green box with a connection in the park strip. If you’re not sure, call your city to find out.

Culinary Connections Outside : Placement

Look for water meters in the park strip. Face home and look directly at the nearest hose bib. This way your water line will go into the house. Many people install the connection next to the house. The theory is that if you are right next to the hose bib, you can tell where the water connection will be. However, there is a major drawback. Eventually the connection will leak. When it does, do you want it near your home? It is a good idea to keep the water a few feet away from the meter. Then, when it eventually leaks, it won’t fill your basement.

to dig

Call 811 (Blue Stakes) before you dig. You don’t want to accidentally puncture a gas line. After stacking the assets, you can start digging like crazy. You should have a sharp shovel, a railroad pick, and some sturdy soled boots. Dig down to the main water line. Average depth is 5-6 feet. Some are 12 feet deep while others are only three feet deep. It may seem like forever, but it only takes a few hours of hard work; or less. You will know you have the right pipe (usually) because it will be either copper or galvanized and ¾ or 1 inch in diameter.

Turn off the water

Call your city and turn off the water mains. Then, double check to see that the water in the house is shut off.

Cut pipe

The best tool for cutting pipe is a reciprocating saw with a metal blade. It only takes a few seconds to cut the pipe. You can also use a hacksaw or rolling pipe cutter. Look at the brass tee and measure from groove to groove. In other words, you need to look carefully at the tee and figure out how much pipe to cut. It’s a nobrainer, but you should err on the side of caution. You can always cut more if it’s not enough. Do not pour dirt into the main line. Place something over the pipe to prevent dirt from entering. A cloth with a rubber band works well.

Install the brass tee

Unscrew the end of the tee and insert the tee. Make sure it fits snugly. Take a crescent wrench and tighten the T in place. Most people use a pipe wrench, which is fine, but not recommended by the industry because the teeth mark the fitting.

Install the brass nipples

First, install the brass nipple to stop and waste. You will use Teflon tape. Wrap three clockwise rounds with Teflon tape on the threads (universally three times, at least, for all threaded connections). Then, using two pipe wrenches, tighten the nipple on the stop and waste. Tighten them as tight as possible without going crazy.

Second, install a brass nipple to the already installed tee. Reuse Teflon tape. A very important point – stop and do not leave litter behind. It has an arrow indicating the direction of water flow. Placing your wrench on the stop and waste will give you more leverage to tighten the nipple into the brass tee.

Install the elbow

Now, you have installed the brass tee, brass nipples, and stop and waste. Take your elbow and install it on the remaining brass nipple. Don’t forget to use Teflon tape. The elbow should be threaded brass (ideally). Do not use Schedule 40 and never use male adapters on this type of installation. Male adapters and schedule 40 elbows are a common cause of failure.

Install the pipe for the sprinkler valve

Attach the schedule 80 foot nipple to the elbow. Don’t forget the Teflon tape. Then use sprinkler primer and sprinkler glue to attach the schedule 40 pipe leg nipple. You will also need a coupling to attach the PVC pipe to the valve to the foot nipple.

Install two inch pipe

A two inch pipe will sit above the stop and waste. It will be held by dust. Makes it so you can turn it on and off using the sprinkler key. You can use Schedule 40 pipe and simply cut a notch in the bottom so that the two-inch pipe fits securely over the water main and stop and waste. You should use a two-inch cap on the top of the pipe to prevent dirt from entering. Cut the top of the pipe at ground level to make the pipe look good. Some stop and waste valves are threaded on. Threading a two inch threaded coupling onto the stop and waste and then attaching the pipe to the coupling works very well.

Final notes

Check everything before you bury. You don’t want to do the project twice. Place a small amount of gravel under the stop and litter. It will help prevent clogging and help the water drain more easily. Also, make sure you don’t get any dirt in the main water line. Immediately after cutting the pipe, cover the pipe until it is reconnected.

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